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A TRIP TO THE KLONDIKE 



THROUGH THE 



STEREOSCOPE, 



From Chicago^ IIL, to St. Michaels, Alaska, During 

that Marvelous Crusade in 1897-8 to the 

Gold Fields of Alaska. 



NOTES ON THE TOUR 

BY 

MR. JOHN P. CLUM, 

Chief of Division of Posfofficc Inspectors, Postofficc Department. 



Published by the Keystone View Company. 

Meadville. Pa. St. Louis, Mo. 

Oakland, Cal. 

1899. 



•ECOND COPY, 




38724 



Copyright 1899 by Keystone View Co. 






wo CO»i|FS PSCEIVEO, 







S^ 



^ 



r 



Press of McCoy & Calvin, 






Meadville, Pa. 



PREFACE. 

Ill this booklet we have the work not only of a student 
and lover of Nature, but of one who has seen and felt the 
beauty and grandeur he describes. Mr. John P. Clum, of 
Washington, D. C, the author of this booklet, had the 
good fortune to be delegated by the Postal authorities as 
representative of the United States to establish the govern- 
ment postal system in Alaska. 

In the Spring of 1898, with an assistant, Mr. Clum 
joined the eager throng that moved toward Alaska and 
the Klondike. He spent over six months in Alaska, trav- 
eled more than seven thousand miles, and made a careful 
study of the country, its resources, topography and scenery. 
With the quick perception of a close observer, he gath- 
ered the interesting and novel sights and experiences to 
be seen and heard along the route, and with care and 
literary skill he has here described our Alaskan series of 
Stereo-photographs, and has vividly told the story of 
the trail and camp. 

It so happened that our photographer and Mr. Clum 
visited Alaska at the same time. They journeyed to the 
West and together took passage on the good steamer 
"Queen" for the "New El Dorado." On this trip our 
photographer, with an artist's skill, caught with his camera 
the scenic life and struggle of the Klondiker, as w^ell as the 
beauty and scenery of that new land. Thus we have pre- 
served the pictured story of a movement such as had 
never been witnessed before, and one which will never be 
seen again, for there will not be another throng that will 
move in lock-step over the famous Chilkoot Pass to the 
Klondike. Thus while our photographer caught the 
scenic story of this rush to the land of gold, Mr. Clum, an 
actor and participant in the drama, caught and preserved 
the story of the life and struggle and trials of this coura- 
geous band, and here in the story and views we have the 
two brought together for the edification and benefit of 
those who would enjoy a trip to the Klondike without its 
hardships and trials. 

Keystone View Company. 



INTRODUCTION, 

As a means of liberal education and healthful recrea- 
tion, no tour of equal length could be more desirable than 
that from the Atlantic seaboard to the ports of Southeast- 
ern Alaska. A most extraordinary panorama is thus pre- 
sented. The masterful enterprises of American energy and 
genius which have developed our great commercial centers ; 
the grand sweeping prairies, rolling plains and ample val- 
leys of the middle West and the ever-changing glories of 
the Rockies, Sierras and Cascades, all furnish interest, 
beauty and grandeur which satisfy but never satiate. 

As the tourist enters Alaskan waters new scenic won- 
ders greet the vision. The lofty and shimmering summits 
of snow and the mighty rivers of the ice with their glisten- 
ing cascades, present a spectacle unsurpassed in the majesty 
of its grandeur. 

The Instigfation, 

When the steamer "Excelsior" sailed into the har- 
bor of San Francisco in the summer of 1897, bringing 
nearly one million dollars in gold that had been wrested 
from the streams of the Klondike country, and the press 
dispatches announced the phenomenally rich discoveries of 
the royal metal that had been made on the Yukon River and 
its tributaries, the eyes of the civilized world were turned 
toward Alaska. The news inaugurated an exodus toward 
the gold fields without parallel in the annals of history ; in 
fact the " yellow fever " became epidemic throughout the 
United States, and a majority of the members of our party 
were among those most seriously afTflicted with this dis- 
ease. 

In accordance with a prearranged plan we assembled at 
Chicago, the great metropolis of the middle West, which, 
though little more than a half century old, has a population 
of nearly two million, and has justly earned its designation 
as " the magic city." The marvelous strength and almost 
inexhaustible resources of this young giant were demon- 
strated by the energy and genius displayed in the manage- 



6 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

ment of the Columbian Exposition, and its phenomenal 
growth affords reasonable justilication for the claim that 
Chicago is soon to be the world's greatest city. Her 
landscape decorations have made the boulevards and parks 
of Chicago famous throughout the world, while the subjects 
of literature and art have been most generously provided 
for. 

No. I. 

State Street, Chicago, IlL 

One of the main thoroughfares of Chicago is State 
street, where we mingled with the surging throng and list- 
ened to the babel of sound. Striking evidences of the ad- 
vanced i^eas of the century are visible on every hand. 
Each available invention has been applied to its particular 
use. The rapid transit lines have virtually drawn the many 
delightful suburbs near to the great commercial heart of 
the city. Architecture has reared its lofty, attractive and 
enduring monuments, one of which, the Masonic Temple, 
twenty-three stories in height, appears in this view. 

No. 2. 

Bird's Eye View of Chicagfo, III. 

Escaping from the busy mart we ascended the tower of 
the Auditorium, where there was presented to our vision a 
magnificent and inspiring panorama of this great city, a 
portion of which is included in this view. We can scarcely 
realize that this solid mass of substantial and lofty build- 
ings has risen from the ashes of the great fire of 1871. 
In the foreground we observe the great "loop" of the 
elevated railway, around which all trains of the elevated roads 
pass on their way to and from the city's center. 

No. 3. , 

Texas Cattle, Union Stock Yards, Chicagfo, IIL 

It is fair to state that Chicago contains the "world's 
butcher shop," and nowhere else can we find such an ex- 
tensive live stock market. Here are truly gathered the 
cattle from "a thousand hills," as well as from the vast 
prairies and plains and mesas of the West and Southwest. 
In this view we see a section of a herd of long horned 



THROUGH THK S'lF.REOSCOPE. 7 

Texas steers which have but recently arrived from the Lone 
Star State. In the great paclving houses of Chicago thou- 
sands of cattle are slaughtered daily, and this enormous 
meat product is ^hipped in various form to the c'enters of 
civilization in all parts of the globe. 

No. 4. 

Coolingf Room, Armour's Packingf House, Chicago, IIL 

It was not until we had been admitted to the interior of 
one of these stupendous slaughtering and meat-packing 
establishments that we obtained a comprehensive idea of the 
vast proportions of this enterprise. While looking down 
between these rows of slaughtered swine one of our party 
aptly remarked, " a mile of pork " ; and, indeed, he might 
have said truthfully ' ' miles of pork. " In this cooling room 
there were not two, but two hundred of these rows, and 
there are several cooling rooms of equal capacity. Then 
we passed through the spacious cooling rooms for beef, 
mutton and veal, which represented the plant and capacity 
of but a single company. When w^e remembered that there 
w^ere nearly two score of these vast meat packing establish- 
ments in Chicago we began to realize the enormity of their 
product, and felt confident that we should find some of these 
distributed along the course of our contemplated tour 
through Alaska. 

No. 5. 

The Lake, Garfield Park, Chicag-o, IIL 

Wearied with the contemplation of the magnitude of the 
city's enormous commercial enterprises and the scenes in 
the midst of the jostling throngs on her great thorough- 
fares, we gladly availed ourselves of an opportunity to visit 
one of her famous pleasure resorts, — Garfield Park. Here 
nature and art have been combined to afford restful recrea- 
tion to the city's populace. Here are pleasant drives, 
shaded walks, groves with cosy nooks, and a beautiful lake 
where those who love the water will find a variety of small 
boats at their disposal in which they may traverse the 
placid bosom of the lake and thoroughly enjoy the passing 
moments while listening to the measured stroke of the 
sturdy oarsman, or, perchance, the echoes of some sweet 



8 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

song wafted over the waters on the wings of a cooHng 
zephyr. 

No. 6. 

Flower Beds, Lincoln Park, Chicago, 111. 

In namhig- her parks Chicago has honored some of our 
greatest presidents, and from the charming lake in Garfield 
Park we were soon transferred to one of those fascinating- 
vistas to be met with in Lincoln Park. In this view the 
skill of the artist is strikingly demonstrated. The per- 
spective is extensive and wonderfully clear, while the out- 
lines of the landscape decorations, the foliage, and every 
flower and shrub, as well as the projected shadows, are dis- 
tinct, producing a general effect that is most realistic. 

No. 7. 

Drexel Boulevard, Chicago, 111* 

A drive down Drexel Boulevard convinced us that there 
are few, if any, more delightful highways in the world. 
The broad, smooth and clean roadway, the spacious and 
well shaded walks, the artistic arrangement of the floral 
decorations and the well-kept parking were most pleasing to 
the eye, while the spacious and beautiful homes which are 
ranged on either side of the avenue, combined to produce an 
exceedingly attractive picture. 

No. 8. 

Grand Stairway, Public Library, Chicago, IlL 

Before leaving Chicago we availed ourselves of an oppor- 
tunity to visit the magnificent new pflblic library, and in 
this view we have a representation of a section of the grand 
marble stairway at the main entrance. This spacious and 
substantial building with its sumptuous marble arches, its 
statues, paintings and sculptured emblems, illustrative of 
science, literature and art, is not only an object of pride to 
all lovers of the beautiful, but it stands as an enduring 
monument to man's most masterful skill and the possibili- 
ties of human genius and endeavor. The majestic and 
imposing character of the structure throughout, together 
with its vast collection of literary productions, cannot fail 
to give it an influence in the elevation and refinement of 
the public taste which will be both potent and far reaching. 



THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 9 

No. 9. 
Minnehaha Falls^ Minnesota, 

On leaving Chicago it was determined that our party- 
should proceed to the Pacific Coast by way of the Northern 
Pacific Railroad, and although there are many points of inter- 
est and beauty to which reference might be made, we have 
not now time to tarry too long while en route to the more 
thrilling scenes associated with the tour through Alaska. 
However, we linger for a glimpse at that matchless cascade, 
the Falls of Minnehaha, which is located about half way 
between Minneapolis and St. Paul, and which has been 
given undying fame in Longfellow's beautiful poem, 
Hiawatha. 

No. TO. 

Noon Hour, En Route to the Klondike, Northern Pacific 
R, R. Car. 
At the time of our departure from St. Paul the crusade 
to the gold fields in the new Northwest was at its height 
and the passenger trafftc taxed the transportation facilities 
of the various railroad companies to their utmost. This 
party secured accommodations in a tourist sleeper and 
accomplished the journey Westward in a most sociable and 
satisfactory manner. Their lunch baskets were amgle and 
had been supplied with a carefully selected variety of the 
good things of life. In this view we have a snap shot of 
the company enjoying a midday lunch while the train swept 
on toward the Occident, bringing them nearer and nearer to 
the new El Dorado, — that goal toward which, with eager 
hope, the thoughts of all were turned. 

No. II. 
Minerva Terrace, Yellowstone Park* 
We sped on across the vast expanse of rolling plains 
and thence into the mountains. Our next stop was in the 
very heart of the Rockies — Yellowstone National Park. 
Amid all the beauty and grandeur of the mountains of the 
great West the Yellowstone Park contains a class of unique 
and fascinating wonders which are ever the delight and 
admiration of the tourist. Arriving at the Mammoth Hot 
Springs Hotel we proceed thence to view these scenic 



lO A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

curios. First are the Mammoth Hot Springs. These pre- 
sent a charming picture. There is a fascination about the 
graceful symmetry of the terraces and the briUiancy of the 
colors that is irresistible. The formations about these 
springs cover an area varying from a few yards to live 
acres, and some of the terraces are from 40 to 60 feet in 
height. The scene here represented is the Minerva Ter- 
race, which covers about three-fourths of an acre and is 40 
feet in height. The hot spring on the summit is 20 feet in 
diameter with a temperature of 154 degrees Fahrenheit. 
These springs are contained within walls crystallized from 
their own limpid waters and the deposits resulting from 
evaporation on the margin of each basin are most exquisite 
in both fomfl and color. Each bowl is beautifully adorned 
with honey-comb patterns, curious carvings and lace work 
effects, while the spaces between the curves are often filled 
with delicate and gleaming stalactites which appear, like 
dainty icicles,- to separate each ray of light into every 
hue and shade obtainable upon the artist's palette. 

No. 12. 

Golden Gate, Yellowstone Park. 

San Francisco has its golden gate and so has Yellow- 
stone Park. Here the road passes through a canyon. 
We see it in this picture clinging to the side of the tower- 
ing cliff. On the opposite side Bunsen Peak thrusts its 
crest still higher against the azure blue. The vista from 
the Golden Gate is one of the glories of the park. 

No. 13. 

Obsidian Cliffs, Yellowstone Park. 

The Obsidian Cliffs are a curiosity and as such merit our 
attention and interest. They rise black, jagged, bold and 
glaring to a height of 200 feet above the surface of Beaver 
Lake, which nestles at their base. The Obsidian Cliffs 
were of great value to the ancient Indian arrow-maker, 
who, the poet declares, was wont to make 

" His arrow-heads of sandstone ; 
Arrow-heads of chalcedony ; 
Arrow-heads of flint and jasper ; 
Smoothed and sharpened at the edges ; 
Hard and polished, keen and costly." 



THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. tt 

And so hard is this natural glass that the patient arrow- 
maker was often days in shaping a single "polished, keen 
and costly" arrow-head. The road winds around these 
cliffs for nearly a half a mile and is j^robably the only road- 
bed of glass in the world. In the construction of the road 
the engineers found their way obstructed by huge boulders 
of glass. Around these great fires were built and when 
thoroughly heated, cold water from the lake was dashed 
upon them and they were thus shattered into fragments by 
natural forces. 

No. 14. 

Our Party^ Yellowstone Park. 

The park affords ample opportunity for a choice of cosy 
and picturesque camping grounds, and at the end of our first 
day's journey through this wonderland we halted in the 
edge of the forest and pitched our tents for the night. 
Camp life in the park is most delightful and will always be 
thoroughly enjoyed by those tourists who have the time and 
opportunity for viewing the park in a thorough and leis- 
urely manner. Although all of the wild animals which are 
native of this section of the Rockies are now protected 
within the limits of the park, even the dreams of the most 
timid are seldom disturbed by any fear of danger from 
these beasts of the forest. 

No. 15. 

Paint Pots, Yellowstone Park, 

We next stopped on our journey to view the Paint Pots 
which we found on one side of the road-way and extending 
over a considerable area. The spectacle presented by these 
was more strange and weird than attractive. The pots 
consist of small holes in the crusty formation which are 
constantly emitting more or less vapor and within which is 
a moving mass of highly-colored earthy substance, which, 
by its constant bubbling and sputtering and gurgling sug- 
gested an ineffectual attempt of some subterranean monster 
to swallow a few bushels of hot mush. However this may 
be, the mush was never swallowed and the bubblings and 
sputterings are likely to continue as long as tourists make 
the rounds of the park. 



12 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

No. i6. 
''Old FaithfuP' Geyser, Yellowstone Park. 

In both the geyser and the artesian well the water is 
forced above the surface by internal, but widely different 
causes. The flow of the artesian well is regular and meas- 
ured, like that of a fountain under even pressure, while the 
flow of the geyser is intermittent and irregular as to time 
and quantity, according to the fitful force generated by the 
disturbing elements of heat and steam. 

When quiescent many of the high spouters are but 
crystal pools. Owing to the irregular intervals of eruption 
the tourist whose time is limited may not be able to see all 
of the great geyserite displays, some terrible in majesty, 
which are the reward of those who ' ' watch and wait. ' ' 
But here is a thing that never fails, an anticipation never 
known to disappoint, — this is the spouting of " Old Faith- 
ful." Punctually every hour, with an ominous grumbling 
and a quaking of the earth, this monster sends forth vast 
accumulations of hot water and steam to a height of 150 
feet. 

No. 17. 

Keppler's Cascades* 

After leaving Old Faithful the road turns Eastward 
toward Yellowstone Lake, and at this turn we stand for a 
moment on the edge of the black canyon through which 
rushes the Firehole River. The waters are constantly 
beaten into a foam in their swift descent over the rocky 
bed, and in this view is shown a number of charming 
little falls known as Keppler's Cascades. 

No. 18. 
Upper Falls, Yellowstone Park. 

After passing the Yellowstone Lake, which hangs like a 
gigantic mirror more than a mile above the level of the 
sea, we follow the river a short distance to where the first 
majestic leap is made as the waters proceed on their way to 
the Grand Canyon. The Upper Falls are not imposing in 
height, but the vast volume of water plunges in a mass over 
the shelving cliff, and in its descent presents the appear- 



THROUGH THK STK RROSCC) I'E. I3 

ance of an accumulation ot" soft clouds driven before a furi- 
ous gale. 

No. 19. 

Great Falls of the Yellowstone* 

One of the grandest and most impressive scenes of the 
park bursts upon the vision of the tourist as he stands near 
the brink of the Canyon, just below the Great Falls, watching 
the water as it seems to pause on the verge of the precipice, 
and then plunges three hundred feet into the gorge below. 
In its descent the torrent is broken into fleecy columns and 
shimmering sheets of silvery foam, which, nevertheless, 
strike the pool below with a deafening roar and rebound in 
fountains of spray and clouds of sparkling mist. 

Everyone who has looked upon the marvels and glories 
of Yellowstone l^ark is impelled to give homage to the 
Supreme Architect who has builded so grandly, even in the 
very heart of the mountains where for. centuries only wild 
beasts had their habitation. 

No. 20. 

Point Lookout and Great Falls, Yellowstone Park. 

Another view of Great Falls from the summit of Point 
Lookout affords a stupendous panorama, spectral as a 
dream and overwhelming in effect. As we gazed into the 
profound depths of this vast abyss the moan of the strug- 
gling waters rose like a grand anthem, which was echoed 
and re-echoed from the towering and gorgeously tinted 
mountain walls. 

No. 21. 

The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. 

The scene from the brink of the falls looking into the 
profound depths of the canyon is one of strange majesty. 
Gazing out upon the mighty space between the widely 
spreading, lavishly decorated walls, we inquire, "whence 
came all this " — how many centuries was it in forming — what 
occultism of Nature directed the chisel that has so deftly 
and boldly sculptured the cliffs and mixed the pigments 
and manipulated the brush that so ornately embellished 
them ? We involuntarily exclaim with the Psalmist : 



14 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

' * Come and see the works of God. All the earth shall 
worship Thee, they shall sing to Thy name. ' ' 

No. 22. 

Bfidal Veil Heights, Columbia River, Oregfon, 

From a scenic standpoint the tour of the Columbia 
River is one of the most attractive in all the West. The 
Northern Pacific Railway follows close along the river's 
brink, frequently skirting the base of towering cliffs which 
rise in a series of grand palisades. 

No. 23. 

Pillars of Hercules, Columbia River, Oregfon, 

Among jhe unique formations along the Columbia River 
are the " Pillars of Hercules," situated a short distance 
from Multnomah Falls. If these towering columns had 
been constructed by man they would be less impressive, 
but it was the Supreme Builder who set them in their 
place, graceful, complete and sublime, and between these 
pillars passes one of the great overland thoroughfares. 

No. 24. 
Multnomah Falls, Columbia River, Oregon* 

Multnomah Falls, a beautiful little cascade tumbling over 
a precipice about three hundred feet in height, presents a 
sublimely attractive spectacle. It seems to quiver from 
end to end like a thread of silver with pearls slipping down 
its entire length. 

No. 25. 

Rooster Rock, Columbia River, Oregon* 

Another prominent feature on the face of Nature in this 
vicinity is " Rooster Rock," standing like a bold and 
sturdy sentinel upon the rugged shore. 

No. 26. 
Bridal Veil Falls, Columbia River, Oregon* 

There are numerous cascades and waterfalls in this sec- 
tion of Oregon, but none presents a wilder or more 
romantic aspect than the Bridal Veil Falls. 



THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. I^ 

No. 27. 
Flumingf Lumber in the Mountains in Oregfon. 

Lumbering is one of the leading- industries of the great 
State of Oregon, and among the labor saving devices for 
transporting the logs from the higher mountain ranges to 
the mills is the lumber flume, a section of which is seen in 
this view. These flumes are usually built at a steep in- 
cline, through which the water rushes with great 
velocity, and the logs are thus readily and swiftly borne 
over a distance of several miles. 

Occasionally a lumberman ventures down one of these 
fiumes in a rude boat and is thus afforded a most exhilir- 
ating and exciting experience. 

No. 28. 

Fishermen at Home, Columbia River. 

The extent of the fisheries of the Pacihc Coast are very 
imperfectly understood by the general public. On the 
Columbia River there are numerous canneries where thou- 
sands of cases of salmon are annually prepared and shipped 
to the markets of the world. Salmon are found in the 
Columbia River in great abundance and during the fishing 
season great companies are employed in catching and 
packing the fish. In this view is shown a section of the 
racks for the nets, which, at the larger canneries, cover 
several acres. 

No. 29. 

''The Portland'' Dining Room, Portland, Ore§fon. 

We have now reached the great commercial city of 
Oregon. Situated at the head of ocean steamer naviga- 
tion, the city of Portland has developed into a wealthy 
metropolis. There are many imposing business blocks 
and palatial residences within the city proper, while the 
various suburbs connected by electric car lines, afford 
attractives homes for those who prefer a residence removed 
from the busy scenes of the great city. 

Among the newest buildings is the spacious Hotel Port- 
land which is modern in construction throughout, and 
here the overland tourist will find c\crything provided for 



t6 a trip to the gold fields of ALASKA 

his comfort and entertainment while spending a few days 
in viewing the many points of interest in and about the 
city. 

No. 30. 

Bird's-eye View of Portland, Oregfon* 

The city of Portland is attractively and advantageously 
situated on the banks of the Willamette. This river affords 
a magnificent water power which is largely used in the 
operation of thriving manufactories. The city stands in the 
center of a region of almost unlimited agricultural re- 
sources, and it is the chief source of supply for the State, 
as well as for portions of Washington, California, and Idaho. 

No. 31. 

Crater Lake, Ore§:on» 

One of the great natural wonders of the high Sierras is 
situated within the limits of the State of Oregon and is 
known as Crater Lake. It is a vast body of clear water, 
ice cold, confined within a circular basin on the very crest 
of the mountain, which at one time was evidently the crater 
of a mighty volcano. It is only the hardy and more enter- 
prising tourists who undertake the trip to Crater Lake, but 
once upon its shores the exceedingly picturesque scenery 
well repays one for the time and effort necessary to accom- 
plish the journey. 

No. 32. 

Great Oregfon Caves— Under the Dome* 

We were fortunate in having an opportunity to visit 
the wonderful Oregon caves. Hidden from human eyes, deep 
in the rock-ribbed bosom of the hills, the invisible hand of 
the invisible God has been ever busy throughout the cen- 
turies creating landscapes with stony skies, yawning chasms 
with spectral visitants, overhanging cliffs with threatening 
aspects, domes with thousands of glistening and many col- 
ored pendants, huge columns and pillars standing in sol- 
emn groups like petrified giants of the forest, crystal lakes 
asleep in a perpetual night, and many shapes and forms of 
beauty and imagery which to-day inspire admiration and 
awe, and impel each beholder to exclaim : " What wonders 
hath God wrought !" 



No. 33- 
Great Oregon Caves—'' Old Nick's Bedroom/' 

Here we found ourselves in a vast realm of stalacta, 
where no ray of sunshine has ever penetrated. But the 
trenius of man has revealed the glories of the Creator, and 
scores of powerful arc lights now blaze in the caverns, 
disclosing an infinite variety of quaint, curious and won- 
derful fomiations, which seem to be the handiwork of 
Nature in her most playful mood. 

Entering " Old Nick's Bedroom" we failed to discover 
anything suggestive of a downy couch, and if it was ex- 
pected that his Satanic Majesty would revel in delightful 
dreams while supported upon the knobs and spines and 
other inequalities of this subterranean sleeping apartment, 
we are not surprised that he is never at home. 

No. 34. 
Dining Room, Hotel Tacoma* 

Passing Northward into the State of Washington our 
next stop was made at the City of Tacoma, which has a 
commanding location on the eastern shore of Puget Sound, 
about half way between Olympia and Seattle. Tacoma is 
now a thriving and populous city and in the preferred resi- 
dence portion, upon the heights, are to be found some ot 
the most charming and hospitable homes in the West, t rom 
these heights there is presented to the vision a most expansive 
and fascinating vista, which, though superbly grand at all 
times, is specially enchanting and impressiveeither at sunrise 
or sunset. Toward the East Mt. Rainier thrusts its crest 
of snow and ice far into the heavens, while toward the West 
the waters of Puget Sound stretch away to the shore be- 
yond where rises the stately Olympic Range, lacoma has 
excellent facilities for transportation both by land and sea, 
and the very latest and best of modern improvements have 
been utilized by her citizens both in public and private en- 
terprises. The hungry and travel-stained tourist is always 
interested in the character of the hotels available and is 
gratified to find that those in Tacoma are both spacious 
and well conducted. One is able to enjoy a course dinner 
at the Hotel Tacoma with genuine comfort and relish, as 



l8 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

may be imagined from a little corner of the dining room, 
which is represented in this view. 

No. 35. 
Cutting Timber in the State of Washington* 

The state of Washington abounds in most magnificent 
forests of fir. Many of the trees are so enormous in bulk as to 
suggest the giant sequoias of California. The lumber indus- 
try of Western Washington has assumed vast proportions, 
but the supply seems to be inexhaustible, so extensive is the 
area of the timber region. So straight and tall are many 
of these forest kings that they suggest mighty col- 
umns supp'orting the green roof above. The Puget Sound 
Indians have an old legend descriptive of the origin of the 
forests, which relates that great giants were fighting in the 
clouds, and a shower of their tremendous arrows were shot 
toward the earth. These speedily took root and the feath- 
ers of the shafts were forthwith transformed into green- 
leaved bowers. In felling these monsters of the vegetable 
kingdom two woodsmen attack a single tree, using both 
ax and saw. A stump of from five to ten feet in height is 
usually left, and while working, a temporary platform is 
constructed by fixing a board or plank in a niche made at 
convenient height in the stump. From these platforms 
the workmen wield their axes and operate the saw until, 
finally, the giant reels upon its base, and then with a 
mighty crash, thrusts itself prone upon the ground. 

No. 36. 

In the Lumber Region, Washington — A Walking Dudley. 

After the trees have been felled and divested of their 
branches the trunks are sawed into convenient lengths of 
about 20 feet each, and then are transferred to the mills to 
be converted into various shapes and dimensions of mer- 
chantable lumber. One method of transporting these logs 
is by means of the "Walking Dudley," a narrow gauge 
steam motor, which hauls the logs over the sleepers of the 
track, as illustrated in this view. 



THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. I9 

No. 37. 

A Cascade Mountain Elk, Washingfton. 

Washington is a paradise for both the huntsman and 
the angler. The forests abound in game and the waters 
are fairly alive with fish. Nowhere will we find wilder or 
more picturesque scenes than on a hunting tour through 
the Cascades. It h indeed a rare privilege to be the guest 
of these majestic mountains, where one may roam at will 
on the trail of the elk and deer which inhabit this glorious 
region, although the hunting of large game is sometimes 
made difificult on account of the heavy timber and the un- 
dergrowth. 

No. 38. 

Snoqualmie Falls, Washington, 
The Great Northern Railroad finds its western terminus 
at the Httle city of Everett on Puget Sound. From here 
the tourist may avail himself of numerous pleasure trips. 
One of these, which should not be omitted by those " who 
in the love of nature commune with her visible forms' ' , is 
an excursion up the Snohomish River to Snoqualmie 
Falls, which, though not imposing in magnitude, is a mar- 
velously beautiful combination of rocks, forest and dash- 
ing waters. Provided with luncheon and fishing tackle, no 
more delightful outing could be desired than a day on the 
brink of this grand cataract, as we may readily imagine 
from the scene presented in this view. A company has 
recently been organized for the purpose of harnessing the 
waters of Snoqualmie. This immense power will be util- 
ized in the generation of electricity which will be conveyed 
by means of great cables to the cities of Seattle and 
Tacoma, and there utilized in propelling street cars and 
machinery, as well as for electric lights and many other 
purposes. 

No. 39. 

An Alaskan Outfitting Store, Seattle, Washington* 

The city of Seattle is the metropolis of the great state 
of Washington and has had a marvelous development dur- 
ing the last two decades. Like Chicago, this city was 
almost destroyed by fire, and in ten years from its 



20 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

ashes have sprung stately and substantial business blocks, 
banks, warehouses, hotels and other structures of which 
any city might justly be proud. During the extra- 
ordinary real estate boom which swept over this portion of 
the country in the latter part of the '8o's Seattle was given 
a great impetus in the way of building and general public 
improvements. Then in the latter part of the '90's came 
the argonauts to the Klondike, a majority of whom made 
Seattle their outfitting point and the port of embarkation 
for the far North. The scene depicted in this view repre- 
sents a portion of one of the principal business streets of 
Seattle. At the beginning of that ' ' yellow fever ' ' epi- 
demic the supplies necessary to equip this vast army of 
argonauts •not only filled the stores and warehouses, but 
were piled in great masses upon the sidewalks. All the 
food supplies intended for transportation on the trails and 
over the passes had to be enclosed in sacks or boxes of 
convenient size for packing on the back. A formidable 
barricade made up from these packages appears upon the 
sidewalk in this picture. A little later on we shall see 
these supplies distributed in the many caches along the 
trail and half buried in the snow drifts in the pass. 

No. 40. 
A Minnesota Dog; Team, Seattle, Washington* 

There were many scenes in the streets of Seattle dur- 
ing our brief stay there which suggested the character of 
equipment and means of transportation necessary for a 
successful pilgrimage into the interior of Alaska. The 
attire of the argonauts was often novel and of great 
variety. Then there were canvas boats, section 
boats, and various other boats for sale, to be used 
in crossing the lakes and navigating the river to 
Dawson ; not to speak of the ready-made metal cabins, 
etc. One of the most interesting and characteristic 
equipments was the Minnesota dog team which is repre- 
sented in this view. We were assured that this team of 
eight dogs, with its owner, had made the entire distance 
overland from Minnesota to Seattle, en route to Dawson. 
The team was well trained and whenever it passed up and 
down the streets attracted much attention and was viewed 



THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 21 

with genuine interest by all. When this view was taken the 
team had been halted for a rest and the promptness with 
which the dogs stretched themselves upon the pavement and 
fell asleep suggested that the story of their long trip over- 
land to Seattle was probably true. We shall see many more 
of these faithful animals on the steamers and along the trails, 
for the dogs transported many thousands of pounds of sup- 
plies up the slippery trails to the pass and over the ice of 
the lakes and rivers beyond. 

No. 41. 
Unloading: Reindeer, Seattle, "Washington. 

In the outskirts of Seattle we found a herd of trained 
reindeer which was, indeed, an unusual sight in our 
country. The deer numbered 537 and were accompan- 
ied by a little over three score of Lapland trainers and 
herders. This proved to be the herd imported by the 
United States Government for the purpose of carrying 
relief to the miners who were reported starving on the 
Yukon. 

On February 4th, 1898, a staunch ship sailed from 
Basekop, Alten Fjord, Norway, four degrees North of the 
Arctic Circle, carrying 538 head of trained reindeer, 511 
sets of harness and 430 Lapland sleds. Accompanying the 
deer was a party of 113 Laplanders consisting of 69 men, 
18 women and 26 children. The voyage of 24 days across 
the Atlantic was accomplished with the loss of but one 
deer, which was killed in a stampede during a storm. 
The expedition landed at New York on February 28th. 
The herd was at once transferred to suitably equipped cars 
and the long overland trip across the continent by rail 
was accomplished without any loss. The deer were 
unloaded at Seattle on March 9th. To maintain the 
herd until its arrival in Alaska, a sufficient quantity of 
the peculiar moss upan which these animals subsist had 
been brought from Norway. Unfortunately the deer were 
given some alfalfa while at Seattle which resulted in the 
death of a dozen of their number. 

The "Lap" herders were industrious and good natured 
and seemed much attached to the deer which they had 
brought so far from their native land. The Laplanders 



22 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

were indeed picturesque in their fur coats girdled at 
the waist, skin moccasins and their unique caps with a 
padded square on the top. 

No. 42. 
Government Reindeer en Route for Alaska* 

These dainty animals were much smaller than the rein- 
deer of our imagination and there was not a single antler 
in the entire herd, but we were told that the deer had been 
dehorned before leaving Lapland in order to economize 
space and also to avoid injury to the herd during its long 
journey by sea and land. Each deer was secured by a 
tether and they were picketed in long lines after the fash- 
ion of cavalry horses in camp. 

Although these animals were thoroughly trained and 
appeared inotfensive and docile, we learned that they have 
a habit of turning frequently upon their drivers and 
herders and striking them viciously with their front feet. 
It is for the purpose of protecting themselves from these 
sudden and dangerous assaults that the ''Lap" traveler 
always wears a cap surmounted by a pad or cushion about 
a foot square and two inches in thickness. 

No. 43. 
Steamer Australia Loading; for Alaska* 

In the good old days an Alaskan bound steamer at- 
tracted little attention and the tourist had no difficulty in 
securing accomodations, including ample deck space for a 
promenade, but during the exodus to the Yukon every 
available craft was pressed into service for the trans- 
portation of Northbound passengers and freight. The 
stability of the vessels was not always tested prior to 
the embarkation, and it is remarkable that so few disasters 
occured on the long voyages through the narrow channels 
which intervene between Seattle and Skagway. For weeks 
every steamer leaving port was loaded to its utmost capac- 
ity and still the wharfs were crowded with the multitude 
awaiting an opportunity to embark. Those were, indeed, 
busy and exciting days. 



THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 23 

No. 44. 
Embarking: for the Klondike — Steamer '^Queen'' at 

Seattle^ 

At the time ot our embarkation in the latter part of 
March, 1898, the excitment had somewhat abated, never- 
theless we found ourselves in the midst of an eager and 
bustling throng hurrying about with packages of personal 
baggage, giving final commands and bidding farewell to 
those who remained behind. In this view we see, half way 
up the bridge, the figure of a woman bent in earnest con- 
versation with another of her sex. When and under what 
circumstances will they meet again ? 

No. 45. 

'^Good Bye, Good Friends, Good Bye ; We §:o to Do or 

Die/' 

The shrill notes of the ship's whisde sounded the final 
warning, the moorings were cast off, the great engines 
were started, the steamer, as if pulsating with life, swung 
proudly into the open waters of that magnificent inland 
sea — Puget Sound — and the long voyage to Alaska had 
begun. Upon the decks were a few of the argonauts wav- 
ing a last adieu. They had set their faces toward the 
golden goal and each seemed conscious of the responsibil- 
ities as well as the possibilities of the undertaking. Per- 
haps they realized that the future held — for all, hardships; 
for a few', fortunes, and for others bleak and isolated graves 
in the far and frozen North. 

No. 46. 

On the Hurricane Deck of the Steamer Queen Leaving; 

Seattle for the Klondike. 

The hurricane deck astern was reserved for the dogs, — 
dogs destined for service over the dreadful Chilkoot trail 
and the ice of the lakes and river beyond. This collection 
of dogs presented a wonderful variety as to size, color and 
disposition. There were old dogs, young dogs, large dogs, 
slim dogs, handsome dogs and vicious dogs. They were 
evidently entire strangers to each other and on unfriendly 
terms. By their constant snapping and snarling they 



24 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

seemed instinctively to protest aa^ainst the exposure and 
hardships in store for them in the far North. Even while 
aboard ship these faithful animals had a minimum of com- 
fort and protection as they were exposed during the entire 
journey to the searching cold of those fierce blasts that 
sweep down from the mountains of snow and ice. 

No. 47. ' 
Du Sheldon Jackson and Gover ment Post Office Inspector, 
en Route to Dawson City, Alaska. 

During our stay in Seattle the weather was balmy and 
springlike but this did not deter scores of vain Yukoners 
from swelt^ing on the streets in an endless variety of 
newly-acquired Klondike attire. The travel-scarred 
veterans did not don their ''Easter" suits until the staunch 
steamer had actually put her nose into one of those chill- 
ing blasts of the Northland, and not until then did the 
artist have an opportunity to photograph Dr. Jackson and 
the Post Office Inspector fully attired in their frost-proof 
garments. Some of us had been nearly bankrupted in the 
purchase of a multitudinous Klondike wardrobe, consist- 
ing of garments of silk, wool, buckskin, leather, corduroy, 
India rubber, fur, etc., but when we sought to enjoy the 
magnificent scenery from the upper deck, while the breath 
of the glaciers was shrieking through the rigging during 
those latter days of March, we fully appreciated our 
''Easter" suits and the wisdom which had induced their 
purchase. 

No5. 48 and 49. 
On the Deck of the Steamer Queen Bound for the Klon 

dike* 

We now found ourselves in the midst of the character- 
istic scenic wonders of the new Northwest and the passen- 
gers reveled in the glorious vistas from the upper deck 
until driven thence by the searching cold to the comforta- 
ble cabin. The kodak fiend, as well as the professional 
artist, was ever on the alert for "snap shots" of the rapidly 
moving and wonderfully varied panorama. Here the 
steamer glides steadily through the narrow channels 
and passes; the icy, green waters ripple along the somber 



THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 25 

and tenantless shores, an endless sweep of forest fringes 
the banks and bluffs, while above and beyond tower those 
glorious mountains of snow; dimpled, shimmering, clean- 
cut and stately, — a spectacle of unsurpassed grandeur and 
impressiveness. 

As we sailed on day and night between huge granite walls 
fringed and frosted at the base and mantled in eternal 
snows, with the vessel's prow pointing ever to the North- 
ward, we realized that although more than three decades 
have elapsed since the territory of Alaska was acquired by 
the United States, comparatively little is understood by 
the general public relative to the history and topography 
of the country, its conditions, its resources and the vastness 
of its area. 

The first recorded expedition to these parts was made 
in 1 741 by a party of Russians under Vitus Bering, and it 
is just 100 years since the territory was granted to a Russo- 
American Fur Company by Emperor Paul VIII. 

Less than a year ago the official statistics showed that 
Alaska had an area of 580,107 square miles, but last sum- 
mer the officers of the Coast and Geodetic Survey discov- 
ered that the land in the vicinity of the delta of the Yukon 
extends further toward the Northwest than was formerly 
supposed, and hence approximately 2,500 square miles 
have been eliminated from the supposed dimensions of 
Bering Sea and added to the territorial domain. A con- 
siderable portion of Alaska lies within the Arctic Circle. 
The greatest extent of the mainland in a North and South 
line is about i,too miles, and from East to West 800 
miles. Its coast line is estimated at 18,211 miles, which 
is greater in extent than the entire coast line of the United 
States. The steamer route from Seattle to Skagway is a 
little over 1,100 miles. The distance from Skagway to 
Dawson and the Klondike is approximately 600 miles, and 
from Dawson to St. Michael, in Bering Sea, about 1,300 
miles. From St. Michael you can proceed to Unalaska by 
ocean steamer, a distance of 750 miles. If you go thence 
to San Francisco by sea you must travel 2,350 miles, while 
the journey by water from Seattle to Unalaska is a little 
less than 2,000 miles. 

For more than 30 years American territory has stretch- 
ed away to the Westward nearly as far as the Philippines. 



2^ A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

At Unalaska we found ourselves three hours and nine 
minutes West of San Francisco. If a straight line were 
let fall due South from Unalaska it would pass a point 
West of the Hawaiian Islands. But we remember that we 
have several hundred miles of American territory West of 
Unalaska. If, then, from the Island Attu, which marks 
the Western limit of the Aleutian archipelago, we proceed 
due South we shall pass a point nearly half way between 
Honolulu and Manila. 

Nor can we object to Cuba, Porto Rico, Hawaii and 
the Philippines simply because they are islands. The 
islands of Alaska aggregate an area of over 31,000 square 
miles. The Alexander archipelago, in Southeastern Alas- 
ka, consists of over 1,100 islands, and the Aleutian archi- 
pelago plunges away into the Pacific nearly 1,500 miles 
and lies upon the map like a giant index finger, mutely 
but persistently indicating the Westward stride of the 
course of empire. 

No. 50. 

Front Street, Wr an§:el, Alaska* 

The tourist to the new Northwest usually sets foot on 
Alaskan soil for the first time at Fort Wrangel, one of the 
oldest Russian outposts, and named after Baron Wrangel. 
This is the site of one of the ancient Indian villages and the 
native community constitutes a considerable proportion of 
the population, although some of the American pioneers 
have been residents here since the '6o's. 

In the recent exodus to the gold fields Fort Wrangel 
became conspicuous as the starting point of one of the 
trails to the Klondike. This route led from Fort Wrangel 
via the Stikeen River to Telegraph Creek and thence to 
Lake Teslin. Here boats were constructed and the trip 
continued via Teslin Lake, Hootalinqua and Lewes Rivers 
to the Yukon. 

At the time of our arrival at Fort Wrangel upwards 
of 2,000 argonauts had been landed, or, more prop- 
erly, stranded there, and while this division of the graad 
army of the Klondikers were waiting for the ice to go 
out of the Stikeen River, American enterprise dis- 
played itself in the development of various speculations of 



THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. i'J 

a more or less illegitimate character. Here we found the 
''sure thing" and shell games, faro, roulette and, towering 
above all these, a genuine, civilized, up-to-date real estate 
boom. Buildings were in course of construction on every 
hand. Real estate and rents were unreasonably high. 
After every foot of available building space on the little 
harbor had been occupied, the boomers actually seized 
upon a portion of the sea, and, filling this area with piling, 
were offering, among other curios, town lots on stilts. We 
inquired the dimensions of these lots and were promptly 
informed that the regular frontage was 25 feet with the 
privilege of extending the back yard into the sea as far as 
one might desire. 

The obstructions to be met with in the public thorough- 
fares of VVrangel are well illustrated in this view. 
The main street was literally filled with boulders, stumps, 
piling, crosswalks, rubbish, tin cans and building material 
of every description. The tourist wonders how the car- 
riages and drays are able to traverse this thoroughfare, 
but soon learns that there are no horses in Wrangel and 
no wheeled vehicles excepting push carts. 



No. 51. 
An Alaskan Deityt Wrangelt Alaska. 

Fort Wrangel is not only one of the oldest of Alaskan 
Indian villages, but it is also famous as the native heath 
and abiding place of the totems. These curios seem to be 
indigenous and appear in the form of carved poles or 
hewn blocks. They are both numerous and grotesque, sug- 
gesting that the native Indian is at least unique. These to- 
tems are a sort of family badge, — not such as could readi- 
ly be worn upon the lapel of the vest, but one that is not 
likely to be overlooked by a neighbor. They record the 
family history, and after viewing one of these family totems, 
those interested in genealogy realize for the first time just 
what a genealogical tree looks like — with the bark off. 
There is also a class of these grotesque columns known as 
death totems, which sometimes mark the graves of men of 
rank and importance. 



28 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

No. 52. 
Alaska by Moonlight ; Bound for the Klondike. 

The day of our arrival at Wrangei was clear and beau- 
tiful, and every moment of our stay was replete with fas- 
cinating interest in the many strange and unique sights; so 
that it was with reluctance that we obeyed the signal which 
once more called us on board the steamer. The moorings 
were cast off and the stately ship swung again upon the 
bosom of the rippling waters. The night was glorious and 
the full moon shed a flood of light upon the bay. The 
prow was soon cutting the waters of Lynn Canal and once 
more our little company of argonauts were on their way 
to the farther North. 

No. 53. 

The Seminole Loaded with Reindeer for the Interior of 

Alaska. 

At the head of Lynn Canal stands those famous twin 
cities of Alaska, — Skagway and Dyea. This canal is 
nearly 100 miles in length and is enclosed between abrupt 
and towering granite walls. 

Soon after entering the canal we overtook and passed 
the schooner Seminole, having on board the entire re- 
lief reindeer herd and a majority of their *'Lap" attend- 
ants. The reindeer, which we last saw at Seattle, were 
loaded on board the Seminole, and on March 17th left 
that port for Haines Mission, a little Indian village locat- 
ed on the western shore of Lynn Canal, about 15 miles 
from its head. The reindeer were all stowed away in the 
hold of the vessel, but the Laplanders thronged the deck 
of the schooner and cheered us lustily as we passed. In- 
asmuch as the schooner had to be towed the entire dis- 
tance from Seattle to Haines Mission, about 1,100 
miles, ten days were consumed in the passage and the Semi- 
nole was safely moored in Portage Cove, at the Mission, on 
March 27th. The company of ''Laps" on the Semi- 
nole consisted of 60 men, the remaining nine men, to- 
gether with the women and children, having been left at 
Port Townsend, to proceed thence by ocean steamer to St. 
Michael. 



THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. ^9 

No. 54. 

The Steamer Queen at Haines Mission, Alaska, En Route 

to the Klondike. 

Our good ship Queen, after passing the Seminole, 
sped on to Skagway, discharged her freight and passengers 
and then returned to Portage Cove just as the reindeer ship, 
was dropping anchor. Furious gales sometimes sweep 
down between the massive granite walls which enclose the 
Lynn Canal, rendering navigation difficult and often dan- 
gerous. In the winter of 1898, during one of these gales, 
the steamer Clara Nevada was driven on a reef a few 
miles below Haines Mission, and when the storm subsid- 
ed no trace of the ship or its thirty-five passengers could 
be found. 

Portage Cove, upon which Haines Mission is situated, 
affords the safest anchorage ground on the canal. Here 
we left the Queen for a brief sojourn at the Mission. It 
would be difficult to find a locality of more fascinating and 
impressive grandeur. The rippling waters of the cove 
stretch away three miles to the rugged walls of the oppo- 
site shore of the canal, and on every hand tower the snow- 
capped, granite giants as if appealing for divine recogni- 
tion. While endeavoring to comprehend the immensity 
of the stupendous panorama there presented, I could but 
feel that when our American tourists have wearied with 
Norway and the Alps, they may with confidence hope to 
find more varied, extensive and inspiring creations of the 
Supreme Architect in those silent Alaskan mountains, 
mantled in eternal snow, with their mighty glaciers of 
azure blue perched with threatening aspect upon the brows 
of towering crags, or creeping with measured pace to the 
bosom of the sea. 

No. 55. 

Dr. Sheldon Jackson and Government Reindeer, Haines 
Mission. 
On March 28th we witnessed the landing of the rein- 
deer at Haines Mission. The herd then numbered 525. 
During the disembarkation one of the deer fell from the 



3 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

barge to the beach and was so severely injured that it had 
to be killed. 

From the date of the landing of the deer at Haines 
Mission the story of the relief expedition is replete with 
tragedy. No preparations had been made for feeding the 
herd after its arrival in Alaska. The moss brought from 
Norway had been exhausted. There was none of this 
moss at Haines and no one seemed to know where to find 
any. A party of ''Laps" went in search of the much- 
needed food for the herd, but returned in a few days emp- 
ty handed. 

It was then learned that the miners on the Yukon were 
not starving, but that the reindeer, intended to transport 
them relief^ were. That the lives of the miners in the in- 
terior did not depend upon the success of this expedition is 
indeed fortunate, as about 400 reindeer died from stavation 
in the vicinity of Portage Cove. Two hundred thousand 
dollars was the sum appropriated by Congress for this 
enterprise, which appears to have been managed jointly 
by representatives of the Interior and War Departments, 
but since the expedition has resulted in disaster, each of 
the responsible parties is -willing to give the credit to the 
other fellow. 

There was at Haines Mission a detachment of infantry 
which was intended to act as an escort to the reindeer herd 
while en route to the interior. The officers of this detach- 
ment were Captain Eldrige, Captain Brainard, Lieutenant 
Clark, Lieutenant Field and Dr. Kemp. We see in this 
viewa number of the reindeer just after they had been landed 
on the shore of Portage Cove, and the persons represented 
in the view are Dr. Jackson, Lieutenant Field, the Post 
Office Inspector, and some soldiers and "Laps." 

No. 56. 

Starting^ ior the Gold Fields on Norway Sleds^ Haines 
Mission. 

In this View we have an excellent representation of a 
Lapland reindeer train ready to start on its journey over 
the limitless fields of snow. We notice the broad hoofs of 
the deer, wisely provided by nature in order to prevent 
their sinking into the soft or loosely packed drifts. The 



THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. ^1 

*'Lap" skds remind us more of a cradle than a sled, and 
in order to test the virtue of this mode of transportation 
we made a short trip over a little pass in an adjoining 
range, utilizing these queer little boat-shaped sleds and 
the fleet deer. The snow was abundant and the trip was 
successfully accomplished with much enthusiastic enjoy- 
ment, but we do not hesitate to declare that to be able to 
maintain one's balance in a "Lap" sled, with the deer at 
full speed, is a feat of which even a Japanese juggler might 
justly be proud. The experiences of the novice in a 
"Lap" sled easily out-class those of the most awkward 
pupil on roller skates or a bicycle. Late in May a pastur- 
age of reindeer moss was found about a hundred miles 
inland and the remnant of the herd was left there to browse 
until able to continue the journey to the interior. 

The .Dalton Trail to the Yukon starts from Haines 
Mission. It was over this trail that the surviving reindeer 
proceeded and when last heard from about 125 reindeer 
were still living and had reached the vicinity of Eagle 
City in Alaskan territory. The feasibility of utilizing the 
reindeer as a means of transportation in Alaska is still 
problematical but the Government is making further 
experiment in this line and it is sincerely hoped that the 
effort will result in ultimate success. 

No. 57. 
The City of Seattle at Ska§:way Wharf, Alaska* 

After seeing the reindeer safely landed at Haines Mis- 
sion we proceeded to Skagway -on the steamer City of 
Seattle, — one of the swiftest vessels plying between 
Puget Sound and the headwaters of the Lynn Canal. 

The pioneer white settler at Skagway located there in 
1 891, yet the first ship load of Yukon argonauts who 
landed on that beach in July, 1897, saw few signs of 
human habitations. Today four splendid wharves nearly 
a mile in length stretch away from a city to the deep 
waters at the head of Lynn Canal. Great sea-going 
steamers touch almost daily at these spacious piers. The 
city is truly a marvel of the nineteenth century, with a 
population of from five to six thousand. Its superb elec- 
tric light system supplies 1,200 incandescent lamps and 50 



3^ A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OP ALASKA 

arc lights. A placid mountain lake of glacier water situ- 
ated hundreds of feet above the city is the source of a 
magnificent water supply. Here are also schools, churches, 
newspapers, banks and machine shops, and it is the ambi- 
tion of Skagway to become the capital city of the North 
Star State — that is to be. 

In this view we see the steamer City of Seattle moor- 
ed at Moore's Wharf. The dock is thronged with Klon- 
dikers eager to learn the latest items of news from 
the States as well as to greet friends who have just arrived 
to join them in their long and hazardous journey to the 
interior gold fields. Astern of the ship we observe several 
steam launches. These little boats ply between Skagway 
and Dyea, for as yet, the only wharf at Dyea has not been 
completed and freight and passengers for the Dyea trail 
are landed at Skagway and transferred thence to Dyea, 
five miles distance, by means of the smaller boats. 

No. 58. 
Lunch by the Wayside; Dyea TraiL 

It was not long after the news of fabulous fortunes un- 
earthed on the Klondike reached civilization until that 
great army of eager and ardent adventurers to the Yukon 
and its tributaries made the Chilkoot Pass famous as one 
of the most accessible gateways to the land of nuggets, 
frosts, mosquitoes, scenery and silence. 

The distance from Dyea to Lake Linderman, at the 
headwaters of the Yukon, is 28 miles, and interposed between 
these two points we find that dreaded barrier, the famous 
Chilkoot Pass. Having been safely landed at Dyea with 
our outfit we proceed at once upon the trail. For the first 
nine miles we followed the course of the Dyea River to 
Canon City and found the road a comparatively easy one. 
From Canon City the trail turns at once into a tortuous 
and picturesque box canyon through which we must pro- 
ceed for a distance of a little over three miles. Down this 
canon rushes the swift waters of the Dyea River, which, 
however, we found completely bridged and hidden beneath 
masses of ice and snow. During the months of February, 
March and April, 1898, this canyon was thronged with 
eager and industrious Klondikers, who were pushing for- 



THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 33 

ward with their supplies toward the summit and to the 
lakes beyond. Soon after entering the canyon we halted 
for a little needed rest and cheerfully accepted an invita- 
tion to lunch with a party of miners who were camped 
along the trail. 

No. 59. 

In the Canyon ; Dyea TraiL 

The scene represented in this view impresses us with 
the fact that the army of argonauts who passed over the 
Dyea Trail not only proceeded on foot but also personally 
transported their camp equipage and supplies. A few 
had horses or dogs to aid them in this tedious and laborious 
work, but the majority either packed their supplies on 
their backs or hauled them upon the low, narrow Yukon 
sleds. The canyon itself with its abrupt and barren walls, 
or steep and heavily timbered slopes, its frozen water falls, 
ice bridges, over-hanging cliffs and snow-laden forests 
presented many rare and beautiful pictures, but it is safe 
to say that few of these were appreciated or even observed 
by those weary toilers, who day after day labored dili- 
gently to bring their supplies nearer to the summit. 

No. 60. 
Gold Miners and Their Dog Teams^ Dyea TraiL 
As we emerged from the canyon the trail widened into a 
comfortable roadway and the ascent was more gradual. 
Here the mountain walls are less precipitous and there 
are numerous spaces in the gorge which are comparatively 
level, affording reasonably secure locations for temporary 
camps. These desirable nooks we found occupied by the 
tents of the gold seekers and as these tents rapidly in- 
creased in number on either side of the trail we were warned 
of the fact that we were approaching that wonderful winter 
metropolis of the Dyea trail, — Sheep Camp. 

No. 61. 
A Picturesque Street in Sheep Camp. 

Those who have never visited a booming frontier min- 
ing camp will find it difficult to appreciate the rapidity 
with which such camps acquire a population and metro- 



34 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

politan importance. The city of Sheep Camp had no 
excuse for an existence excepting the fact that it was the 
last halt on the trail to the Chilkoot before passing above 
timber line. This fact made it the great transfer station 
where Klondikers cached their supplies and from which 
they transported them in installments to the summit of the 
pass. There are few cities in all American history which 
have had a more rapid growth, or a more sudden and com- 
plete collapse than Sheep Camp. 

No. 62. 
Our Party en Route to the Klondike, Sheep Camp. 

Sheep*" Camp is located on either side of the Dyea 
River, which, during summer, is a rushing torrent from 30 
to 40 feet in width. Mountains of Alpine grandeur rise 
on either side and the gorges are filled with great glaciers. 
In the fall of 1897 the city consisted of about 150 tents 
with a population of from 300 to 400 persons. At the 
time of our arrival in Sheep Champ on April 5th, 1898, it 
presented a busy, unique and weird spectacle. Tents, 
shacks, shanties and buildings of varied shape, size and 
hue were crowded along either side of the road which fol- 
lows the narrow ravine towards the' pass. Thousands of 
people of all ages and nationalities, women as well as men, 
were camped here. Throngs of adventurous gold seekers 
were moving hither and thither in every direction, surging 
over snow drifts or along the narrow, winding and pictur- 
esque streets, with heavy packs, or tugging away in a perse- 
vering endeavor to drag their heavily laden sleds towards 
the summit. 

The population of the city at that time was estimated 
at from seven to eight thousand. The business of trans- 
porting supplies over the Dyea trail was a profitable one 
to those who had at their command the necessary means 
of transportation. The rates charged between Dyea and 
Lake Linderman during the earlier period of the crusade 
were appalling to those Klondikers who were not liberally 
supplied with ready cash. Several pack trains were 
operated between Dyea and Sheep Camp, and in this view 
we see one of these trains entering Sheep Camp heavily 
laden with miners' supplies. 



THROUCH THE STERKOSCO I'E. 35 

No. 63. 
Main Street, Sheep Camp. 

In this view we are offered a more comprehensive idea 
of that section of the canyon in which Sheep Camp was 
located. Every portion of available space is occupied by 
tents, stores, restaurants, warehouses and caches. In the 
foreground a dog team is struggling up the slope 
while the driver assists in tugging at the load. In the 
rear follow in single file a line of weary men bearing their 
heavy packs. There is nothing here to indicate perman- 
ency or com^fort, but on the. contrary, everything suggests a 
temporary abiding place and an earnest, persevering en- 
deavor to reach some coveted goal beyond. 

No. 64. 

Dr. J. Jones' Residence, Preparing for Dinner, Sheep 

Camp. 

Here we have a representation of the ofiftce and domicile 
of the leading physician of Sheep Camp. We must not 
forget that the argonauts were heirs to all the ills of human 
flesh and therefore the good doctor was in great demand. 
In 1897 Dr. J. Jones commanded a lucrative practice in 
Evanston, 111., where he was chairman of the city Board of 
Health. Mr. George B. Winter was one of the successful 
grocers of the same city. About this time the instigator 
and promoter of a Klondike Gold Mining Company ap- 
peared upon the scene and cleverly disseminated a prolific 
brood of "yellow fever" germs. This seed fell upon ex- 
ceeding good ground and soon bore a generous harvest — 
for the promoter. Jones abandoned his practice and Win- 
ter sold out his business. Each prospective millionaire 
member of the Evanston Klondike Gold Mining Company 
paid to the promoter several hundred dollars to be used as 
a " working capital " for the purchase of necessary sup- 
plies and the development of rich placer claims. The plan 
was to proceed to the gold fields by way of the formidable 
Chilkoot Pass, shovel and pan and sack as much of the 
royal metal as they could carry and then return to Evans- 
ton with new garments, amid the blare of bannered trum- 
pets, feasting and revelry. 



36 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

The brave, generous and self-sacrificing promoter volun- 
teered to precede the party and prepare for their coming. 
Single-handed and alone he would purchase the supplies, 
arrange for the transportation, push aside the rugged 
boulders on the trail, and, as it were, strew with flowers 
their pathway to the fields of gold. And thus he went, 
bearing the money with him. At the appointed time 
the " Evanston Klondike Gold Mining Company" fol- 
lowed to the trysting place — but, lo, the kind promoter was 
not there, neither was the money nor the supplies, nor yet 
the flowers — nothing but the boulders and the trail. Their 
visions of gold had proved but a North Sea bubble, which 
speedily burst, enveloping its victims in a chilling mist. 
The promote?, alone, missed this mist, though he himself 
was missed. 

However, the "Company" pushed on as far as Sheep 
Camp, where Dr. Jones "hung out his shingle," or rather 
painted it on the roof of his tent, and Mr. Winter engaged 
as his assistant. The fame of the doctor soon spread 
abroad in this portable Arctic city and his practice grew 
apace. Klondike fees were charged and collected, and 
thus the doctor retrieved a goodly portion of the money 
he had invested in the "promoter," but a majority of the 
" Company" returned to Evanston late in the summer of 
1898, sadder, poorer and wiser men. 

No. 65. 
Red Fi'ont Store, Sheep Camp. 

Passing along the main street we observe a few more 
or less pretentious merchandising establishments with a 
liberal display of such supplies and wares as are most need- 
ed in an Arctic mining camp. These stores are of rude 
and cheap construction, usually thrown together of such 
material as chanced to be most available, and without 
further architectural design than simply to afford shelter. 

No. 66. 
The Leadingf Store in Sheep Camp* 

In some of these establishments we find a combination 
of general merchandising establishment, drug store, res- 
taurant and lodging house. The unprotected manner in 



THROUOH THK S'I'ERKOSCOrK . 37 

which the goods were displayed in front of these stores in- 
dicates the absolute, confidence which was reposed by the 
dealers in the integrity of the argonauts, and it should be 
added that this confidence was seldom violated. 

No. 67. 

Courtney's Store and Post Office^ Sheep Camp. 

In this view we have a combination of grocery store, 
post-office, laundry, and hay and grain warehouse, as well 
as a Miner's Exchange; for one of the signs on the front 
post announces that outfits will be bought as well as sold. 
We also observe that **spuds" are valued at seven cents per 
pound, while the pleasant, smiling features of the little girl 
in the foreground assure us that the happiness of children 
is never dependentupon their environments. Mr. Courtney, 
the proprietor, was fortunate in having with him his family, 
and his wife is seen at the doorway of the tent atiending 
to the wants of a waiting customer. 

The sign over the doorway advertising a "five cent 
mail," or ten cents from Dyea to the lakes, would not be 
understood by a stranger. It must be remembered that 
we are now very near to the international line which di- 
vides Alaska from Canadian territory. At this time no 
provision had been made by our Government for the trans- 
portation of mails beyond Dyea, and therefore the thous- 
ands of people who were moving their supplies to and 
beyond Sheep Camp found it necessary to arrange 
for a private mail service from Dyea. For several months 
a fee of ten cents was charged for carrying a single letter 
from Dyea to Sheep Camp, and 25 cents for carrying a letter 
from Dyea to Lake Linderman, but Mr. Courtney was a 
man who believed in competition and therefore established 
an opposition mail service, contracting to carry letters 
from Dyea to Sheep Camp for five cents each, and from 
Dyea to the lakes for ten cents. This private mail service 
developed into an extensive and profitable business. 

No. 68. 
U. S. Post Office Inspector, John P. Clum, on His Trip 
Through Alaska. 
The residents of Sheep Camp and Dyea Trail were 



38 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

greatly pleased when it was announced that an inspector 
representing the Post Office Departmeilt had arrived upon 
the ground for the purpose of arranging for a post office 
and a regular mail service between Dyea and Sheep Camp. 
In this view we see the inspector as he appeared astride 
of a Government mule while making a tour of Sheep Camp 
and arranging for the location of a post office and the 
appointment of a postmaster. It may be mentioned that 
the mule represented in this view was one of a large drove 
of pack mules sent by the Government from Montana to 
Dyea to be used for the purpose of transporting supplies 
to the interior, in case this should become necessary to 
save from starvation those miners who had spent the win- 
ter in the vicinity of Dawson and the Klondike. 



No. 69. 
The ^^Miners' Friend'' at Lunch, Sheep Camp, Alaska* 

That useful little animal which patiently bears the name 
of ''burro" as a heritage from the old Spanish occupation 
of the great Southwest, was a pioneer of civilization, not 
only in Palestine and Egypt, and later in Mexico, but has 
also figured conspicuously in the development of our 
Western frontier where his form has become familiar to 
the chronic traveler, and, therefore, when we found him 
in Alaska mingling with the eager throng of gold seekers, 
we felt like shaking hands with an old friend. In Arizona 
the *'burro" appeared to thrive on shavings, tin cans and 
pickings from ash piles, but the snow drifts and blizzards 
of the far North were illy suited to the delicate appetite of 
this docile and submissive beast of burden. Besides be- 
ing patient and docile, the burro is also strong, sure- 
footed, economical and seems to have learned like Paul 
and the Mexicans, with whatsoever lot he has, therewith 
to be content. These characteristics have long since en- 
titled the burro to recognition as "the miners' friend" 
and in this view we see a small group huddled together in 
a not very substantial but picturesque ''corral", munching 
their noon-day meal in a most sociable manner. 



THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 39 

No. 70. 
The '^Miners' Friend*' at Lunch, Sheep Camp, Alaska. 

The burro, unlike Othello and the Coxeyites, is never 
without an occupation. He has followed in the wake of 
the caravan, slept in the shadow of the prairie schooner, 
raised his familiar nightingale voice in response to the 
shrill whistle of the locomotive, and here on the Dyea trail 
he views with composure and incredulity his latest rival as 
a means of transportation, — the elevated tram. 

No. 71. 

The Morgue After the Snow Slide of April 3, t898, Sheep 
Camp, Alaska, 

It was not until the railroad and steamships had been 
abandoned for the trails to the Klondike that the argo- 
nauts encountered those labors, privations and disasters 
which have added chapter after chapter to the horrors of 
the Dyea trail and the dreadful Chilkoot Pass, and many 
a thrilling and pathetic story has passed into oblivion, — 
ended and lost in the tragic death of its hero. 

It was our fortune to arrive in Sheep Camp just in 
time to witness the melancholy results of the fatal snow 
slide which swept across a portion of the Dyea trail on the 
morning of April 3, 1898, burying beneath its ponderous 
weight nearly three score of these adventurers. The work 
of rescue was already in progress and as the bodies were 
recovered from their frosty sepulchre they were placed on 
Yukon sleds and carefully transported to a large tent 
located near the center of Sheep Camp which had been 
temporarily transformed into a morgue. As fast as the 
bodies were identified and claimed by friends they were 
removed and prepared for burial. It was indeed a sad- 
dening and awful spectacle. Business of all kinds had been 
suspended. The gold seekers gathered in large groups 
and discussed the awful calamity which had interposed 
itself in their path. At irregular intervals little proces- 
sions passed through the narrow and winding streets of 
this transient city dragging upon a low sled the rigid form of 
some luckless victim, who but a little time before had been 
one of the most eager and hopeful of that eager and hopeful 



40 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

throng. The scenes were weird and dismal. Death, al- 
ways dreaded, seemed doubly grim and dreadful in those 
remote, bleak and inhospitable waste places of the North 
where a majority of the dead were so far removed from 
happy homes and the ministrations of loving hearts and 
hands. 

No. 72. 
Sheep Camp from a Store House* 

From Sheep Camp we proceed on our journey 
toward the pass. We here observe the ' 'caches" along 
the trail. Heaps of supplies are visible everywhere. It 
was not the passing of the person but the transportation 
of the outfits that gave to the trails their greatest terrors 
and tragedies. Packers' rates from Dyea to Lake Linder- 
man, 28 miles, ranged from 30 to 50 cents per pound for 
months dur.ing the stampede. Thousands could not 
afford these, or any other rates, so they tugged and lug- 
ged up the steep, slippery and narrow grades with a hun- 
dred or more pounds, for a mile or more, when the load 
was deposited or "cached." The distance back to the 
former cache was then covered again and again until the 
entire outfit of 1,000, 1,500 or 2,000 was brought up. 
The last load was not deposited, but carried to where a 
new cache was started. 

No. 73. 
Gold Miners and their Dogf Teams, Dyea Trail. 

It was thus that the pilgrims to the Yukon toiled and 
struggled in the midst of the rigors of the Arctic winter, 
many poorly sheltered at night, subsisting on food uncer- 
tain in quality, limited in variety and faulty in preparation. 

We see in this view a group of those faithful dogs who 
did so much to aid the Yukoners on their march to the 
interior, but notwithstanding the effective service rendered 
by these noble animals they were frequently shown but 
little consideration or mercy. Indeed, the brutal cruelty 
practiced towards those faithful beasts of burden, horses 
as well as dogs, would, if truly narrated, occupy many 
pages in the sad story of the horrors and tragedies of the 
trail. The noble, patient, dumb animals labored, suffer- 



THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 4^ 

ed, endured and perished,— martyrs to the inhumanity of 
human avarice. 

No. 74. 
On the Dyea Trail. 
We have in this view an extraordinarily realistic panora- 
ma of the Dyea Trail just before it passes the track of the 
fatal avalanche. The scene is indeed rugged, bleak and 
uninviting, and the trail slippery, tortuous and difficult, 
enabling us to comprehend in some degree, the courage 
and endurance essential to the success of such an under- 
taking as that in which this vast army was engaged. 

There were not a few here who had been made desper- 
ate through years of struggle with low wages and adverse 
cirumstances. These cheerfully dared and endured in the 
hope of delivering themselves from the bondage of per- 
petual poverty, and they even found solace in the contemp- 
lation that if an early death awaited them, they should at 
least be free from the tyranny of life. 

Before leaving this scene we should observe the line 
of telephone poles which appears upon the right of the 
trail. A telephone line had been constructed trom Dyea 
to Chilkoot summit which proved a great convenience to 
the crusaders. Located in the center of the ravine we 
notice three of the uprights supporting the aerial tramway, 
which extends from the mouth of the canyon to the sum- 
mit of the pass and of which we shall see more in the 
near future. 

No. 75. 
Citizens of Ohio En Route to the Klondike. 
We have in this view an illustration of rapid transit on 
the Dyea trail. In fact, this train might properly be des- 
ignated as the Chilkoot ''Oxpress.'^ The citizens repre- 
sented may have hailed from Ohio, but the conditions on 
the trail were such as to completely obliterate anything like 
state characteristics. There was little respecting of per- 
sons in this multitude. All classes were represented; la- 
borers, clerks, merchants, bankers, lawyers, physicians 
and ministers mingled in the adventurous throng. The 
difficulties and necessities of the situation leveled all ranks 



42 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

and the observer recognized only frail humanity struggling 
in the mass. 

No. 76. 

Searching: for the Dead After the Snow-slide of April 3, 

We have now arrived upon a scene of unusual interest. 
The building represented is the last power house of the 
Tramway Company before the summit is reached. The 
foreground includes a portion of the trail which was swept 
by the fatal avalanche of April 3, 1898, while toward the 
left in the background, if we look carfully, we shall ob- 
serve that so called line of human ants persistently creep- 
ing through a niche in the mountain's crest. This is our 
first glimpse*of the summit of the dreaded Chilkoot. We 
pause for rest and reflection. 

On either side of the trail here the mountains rise 
abrupt and rugged. The masses of snow which had 
gatljiered upon the precipitous cliffs during the storms of 
winter had been softened by a southerly wind. It was 
Sunday morning; warning of danger had been given, and 
some of the victims were fleeing to places of safety. Be- 
tween twenty and thirty had just left the power house; a 
few moments more and a majority would have escaped, 
but fate had fixed their destiny. In the midst of a blind- 
ing snow storm came the thunder of the mighty avalanche, 
and in a twinkling three score of those weary, hopeful 
toilers who had struggled with their supplies to the very 
gateway of the land of promise, were swept into eternity. 

No. 77. 
Searching for the Dead After the Snow-slide of April 3^ 

t898. 

The roar of the slide could be distinctly heard at Sheep 
Camp, and the news of the disaster was quickly imparted. 
A thousand sympathetic hearts responded to the call for 
rescue, and during the remainder of that memorable Sun- 
day, and for three days following, that eager rush towards 
the Klondike was suspended, while relays of several hun- 
dred each, made up from those thousands of weather beat- 
en adventurers, tunnelled and excavated throughout the 



THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 43 

length and breadth and depth of that mighty sea of snow, 
searching for the dead. Only three of those caught in 
the slide escaped alive. On April 5th it was our melan- 
choly privilege to aid in this worlc of rescue. Fifty-two 
bodies were recovered at that time, and the influence of 
the summer sun has since disclosed four others. 

There is no suggestion of an irresistible and death-deal- 
ing force lurking in the tiny snowflake nestling on a petal 
of the last rose of summer. Expansive mantles of ermine 
hung like seamless draperies from the crests and 
shoulders of those towering Arctic mouatains, giving to 
the myriads of domes and pyramids and peaks a peaceful, 
dignified and glorious appearance as they gleamed and 
glistened in the sunlight like stately monuments of purest 
alabaster. 

Even after the mighty avalanche of April 3rd had ac- 
complished its swift work of death, one might have passed 
its unruffled crest little dreaming that it was at once the 
cruel shroud and silent tomb of scores of luckless mortals 
who had been overwhelmed by the elements' mad rush, 
and their helpless forms hermetically sealed in the icy, 
vice-like grasp of the remorseless storm king of the Chil- 
koot. 

No. 78. 

Distant View of Chilkoot Pass. 

The series of funeral services are ended. The solemn 
*'dust to dust, ashes to ashes" has been repeated over the 
last victim of the avalanche, once more the thous- 
ands have taken up their line of march to the Yukon 
and all is bustle and activity along the trail. Proceeding a 
short distance beyond the track of the snow-slide and sud- 
denly the icy stairway to the summit appears in full view, 
presenting a spectacle all were eager to behold, notwith- 
standing it interposed the most formidable and dreaded 
barrier of the trail. From the point where this view was 
taken the cables of the aerial tram stretch away to the 
summit, and where they pass over the camp at the foot of 
the grade the cables attain their greatest altitude. 

On the right of the picture we notice the Peterson 
trail, which, though less precipitous, was much less pop- 
ular than the direct climb to the summit, on account of 



44 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

its greater length and the extra time consumed in making 
the ascent. 



No. 79. 

Pfeparingf to Climb the ^'Golden Stair'' and Peterson's 

Trail, Chilkoot Pass, Alaska. 

Approaching nearer this last grand climb to the sum- 
mit and we are afforded a realistic panorama of those 
scenes which were daily enacted at the foot of the pass. 
Here the last caches preparatory to the final struggle to 
the mountain's crest are made. Beyond this point the pack 
mules and other animals were of no value, and those who 
had not arranged for the transportation of their supplies over 
the tramway had no alternative except to trudge with them 
up this steep and wearisome climb. Here we observe 
overhead the cables of the tramway, with several buckets 
passing to and from the pass. This tram was operated by 
steam power, and buckets with a capacity of two hundred 
pounds of freight each, were suspended upon the cable at 
intervals of about one hundred yards. 

No. 80. 

Klondikers Climbingf the ^^Golden Stair" and Peter^son's 
Trail, Chilkoot, Alaska. 

Many of us who are accustomed to mountains and 
mountain climbing would regard it an exciting and exhila- 
rating exercise to cross the Chilkoot Pass unencumbered 
on a bright day; but when the storm threatens and the 
clouds gather and the darkness lowers and the tempest 
shrieks and the snow blinds and the frosts sear, then the 
bravest and the hardiest hasten to find secure shelter. 

The pass was not so formidable for the Yukoner to 
cross in person, but many have endured untold hardships 
in packing their supplies between Dyea and Lake Linder- 
man. Such penance is no longer necessary to those who 
are able to pay the freight rates charged by the Tramway 
Company, which we found to be reasonable. 



THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 45 

No. 8i. 
At the Foot of the Chilkoot, 

This view illustrates that activity which was daily mani- 
fested by the argonauts who had proceeded thus far on 
their journey. We observe the trenches in the snow 
drifts, made for the purpose of uncovering supplies which 
had been buried by the storms and slides since they were 
deposited here. 

No. 82. 
Gold Miners and Packers on the Dyea TraiL 

At the foot of the grade was a small power house and 
here the packs were weighed and arranged. Here the 
"miners' friend," the burro, parted company with his 
load, which then became "the white man's burden." As 
soon as the packs had been adjusted the men took their 
places at the foot of the grade and proceeded upward as 
opportunity was afforded. Many were provided with alpine 
stocks to aid them in the difficult climb. The packs were 
of great variety as to their shape, weight and contents. 

In the foreground to the left we observe one of those 
heroic women who joined in the crusade to the gold fields, 
and while leaning upon a bale of hay in the midst of con- 
fused masses of supplies, she is looking backwards over 
the trail, although we are sure she has no desire to move 
except in the other direction. 

No. 83. 

Klondikers Starting; up the ''Golden Stair/^ Chilkoot 

Pass, Alaska* 

Having secured a place in line we were compelled to 
wait for the man ahead to remove his foot from each suc- 
cessive step before we could advance and likewise found it 
necessary to keep moving out of the way of the man who 
followed close upon our heels. 

At this part of the trail we observed a portion of the 
surface cable by means of which goods were transported on 
sleds from the foot of this grade to the summit, the power 
being furnished by a gasoline engine. 



46 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

No. 84. 

Boand for the Klondike Gold Fields, Chilkoot Pass, 

Alaska. 

The grade is very steep and a life line was stretched from 
the foot of the stairway to the summit. A thousand icy 
steps were cut in the hardened snow. 

There are numberless steep mountain grades and many 
difficult passes, but there never was but one Chilkoot, and 
the scenes and experiences it afforded during this crusade 
will never be forgotten by those who witnessed them, nor 
will those scenes ever be repeated. 

No. 85. 
Gold Miners Climbing to the Summit of Chilkoot Pass* 

The white packers carry from 75 to 150 pounds at a 
time, while the Indians carry from 100 to 250 pounds each. 
If we weary during the ascent there are, at short intervals, 
small balconies on the left of the trail dug in the snow 
drifts where we may step aside and rest. An unwritten 
law forbids that any one shall descend the stairway, for if 
this were permitted the steps would soon be destroyed by 
the force of the downward tread. The life line which 
formed the balustrade to this Jacob's Ladder to the Chil- 
koot, is plainly seen in this view. The nearness with 
which this grade approached the perpendicular is forcibly 
indicated here. 

In descending this grade the regular packers redeemed 
some of the time consumed in the ascent. They had a 
sort of padded canvass toboggan sewed to the proper place 
or position on their garments and when they were ready to 
make the descent they simply stepped a few paces to the 
right of the stairway and sitting down on the brink of the 
mountain they shut their eyes and let go. Gravity did the 
rest. In a few seconds they gathered themselves up at the 
foot of the grade, shook off the snow and proceeded to weigh 
and adjust another pack. This was shooting the chutes with 
a vengeance and suggests the Chinaman's idea of a tobog- 
gan slide, who, when asked for a description of his exper- 
ience simply replied: ''Him alle sarnie swish-sh-sh-sh, — 
walkie back a mile." 



THROUGH THE STEREOSCOPE. 47 

No. 86. 
Miners and Packers Climbing the ^'Golden Stair'* Trail. 

In this view we have ascended about one-fourth of the 
icy stairway and pause a moment to rest and view the 
strange, stupendous and impressive panorama which 
spreads away before us down the trail and through 
the openings of the great canyon towards Dyea. The throng 
here represented faithfully depicts the conditions which 
prevailed along the Dyea trail and on the Chilkoot Pass 
for months during the progress of this crusade. From 
morning till night, and day after day, this line of struggling, 
hopeful, silent men toiled up this steep and difficult 
grade. Their numbers and the close order of their march 
required a measure to their tread which will pass down in 
history as the famous "lock-step of the Chilkoot.'^ 

The climbing of the Jacob's ladder of the Chilkoot was 
finally accomplished, the last icy step was measured, and 
before our interested vision there was displayed a strange 
and wonderful scene. We could scarcely realize that we 
were actually standing on the very summit of the famed, 
the fearful, the glorious Chilkoot Pass. 



No. 87. 
Klondikers in CounciL 

After the summit of the pass had been reached then 
began the journey to the lakes and although the greater 
portion of the trail was down grade, there was the same 
proportion of wearisome marches back and forth as the 
supplies were gradually moved from cache to cache. In 
th's view we have a representation of a party resting on 
the trail and evidently discussing the experiences of the 
past and the anticipations of the future. 

In these 'inhospitable solitudes it occurred to us that 
Robinson Crusoe must have undergone some tedious 
rehearsals before he acquired that perfect resignation to 
Providence which so delights us — when told in stories. 



48 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

No. 88. 

''Big Tree Store/* on the Trail from Chilkoot Pass to 
Lake Linderman, Alaska* 

The majority of those who crossed the pass stopped 
either at Lake Linderman or Lake Bennett for the pur- 
pose of constructing boats for the journey down the Yukon. 
The advance of the crusaders rendered it necessary for the 
merchants to move their supplies at an equal pace. Suit- 
able buildings were not available at the front, and the 
goods and chattels which comprised the stock of the mer- 
chants were deposited at some convenient point on the 
trail, and the proprietor was forthwith ready for business. 
We see he?^ a representation of an impromptu store locat- 
ed beneath a large tree by the wayside, while the merchant 
is taking the order of a Klondiker for the delivery of such 
supplies as he may need to complete his outfit. This par- 
ticular merchant was known on the Dyea trail and the 
lakes as Dr. Cleveland. He had been formerly quite well 
known in Washington, D. C. Having features somewhat 
similar to Lincoln, he affected the style of dress and hat 
worn by the martyred President, which made the resem- 
blance still more striking. 

Dr. Cleveland was one of the most expert canoeists on 
the lakes, and shot the rapids between Lakes Linderman 
and Bennett several times in his canoes. These rapids 
were exceedingly swift and dangerous and the daring feats 
of the doctor in running them invariably drew large crowds 
of admiring witnesses to the brink of the canyon. Dr. 
Cleveland may have been regarded as a crank in Washing- 
ton, but his skill as a boatman and his coolness and un- 
flinching courage in the midst of seething waters and dan- 
gerous rocks made him the hero of the day at Linderman 
Rapids. 

No. 89. 
A Happy Home in Alaska. 

A family residence in Alaska was not necessarily a very 
elaborate aifair, as may be inferred from the structure rep- 
resented in this scene. A six by eight wall tent, supported 
by a couple of rude poles, with the inevitable Yukon stove, 
a cracker box or two and a roll of blankets completed the 



THROUGH THK STKR EOSCOPE. 49 

establishment, and yet the dwellers therein manifested a 
reasonable measure of contentment and endeavored to 
persuade themselves that they were simply enjoying an 
outing in the forests. 

There were many families who joined in this crusade, 
in some of which there were several children, while not a 
few infants were found among the great company that 
made up the Yukon flotilla of 1898. In making the trip 
over the lakes and down the river families usually pro- 
ceeded in barges, upon a portion of which was constructed 
a permanent tent, thus affording the maximum amount of 
comfort and convenience attainable during a voyage of 
this character. 

No. 90. 
A Halt by the Wayside, En Route to the Klondike. 
We met a goodly number of robust young fellows who 
had undertaken this journey in search of the royal metal, 
fully prepared to overcome all difficulties and to get the 
greatest amount of enjoyment and comfort possible out of 
the trip. They looked on the bright side of everything, 
worked energetically during pleasant weather and rested 
during the storms, enjoyed the scenery, swung their ham- 
mocks in cozy nooks, ate regular and hearty meals, and 
whether or not they succeeded in securing a paying claim 
in the gold fields, they at least enjoyed the days as they 
passed, and their experiences en route to and through the 
heart of Alaska were worth to them all the time and effort 
required in their accomplishment. In this view we have 
represented a temporary camp occupied by two young men 
of the character just described, and while one is enjoying 
a short siesta in his hammock, the other is preparing some 
dainty morsel of food as a surprise for his sleeping part- 
ner, and a reminder of the goodie-goodies in the old home 
from which they are now so far separated. 

When the adventurous pilgrim to the Yukon had climb- 
ed the thousand icy steps of that precipitous stairway 
which completes the ascent to the summit of Chilkoot 
Pass, he had reached the line which not only divides the flow 
of waters and the domains of nations, but where the con- 
ditions, interests and ambition of the people appear to 
change. The busy world, the march of nations and the 



50 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

fortunes of war seemed to be instinctively confided to those 
who remained within the range of civilization and its mar- 
velous facilities for transportation and communication. 
The Yukoner was not seeking the glories of war, but the glit- 
ter of gold; he did not lack patriotism, but the facilities 
for displaying that splendid virtue were woefully lacking. 
Battles might be lost or won — he could not change their 
course, he did not even know the result for days and even 
weeks after the roar of the great cannon had ceased and 
the dead and wounded had been anxiously numbered. A 
few papers with the * 'latest news" reached camp at irregu- 
lar intervals, and although from eight to ten days old they 
were eagerly snapped up at twenty-five cents each. 

Hence it was that the Yukoner accepted with more or less 
gratitude whatever news he could obtain from home and the 
Var, but his energies were expended in the construction of his 
boat; his affections were centered upon her symmetry and 
sailing virtues, and his ambition and hopes carried him in 
his day dreams to a far off, undiscovered* country, where 
there are nuggets galore, and thence back to a home of 
plenty and unalloyed happiness. 

No. 91. 
Going: Down the Yukon by Moonligfht to Dawson City. 

The ice disappeared from the upper lakes during the 
latter part of May, and on the 30th of that month the first 
grand section of the Yukon flotilla set sail from the head- 
waters of Lake Bennett bound for Dawson and the Klon- 
dike. The voyage occupied from two weeks to a month, 
the time depending much upon the character of the boat, 
the weight of the cargo and the energy of the crew. At 
this season of the year the nights are very brief and it is 
possible to keep the boats under way the entire twenty- 
four hours. 

There were about 7,000 small boats that made the trip 
down the Yukon at this time, carrying approximately 20,- 
000 argonauts and 7,000 tons of supplies. Some portions 
of the journey were especially dangerous, and there were 
frequent furious gales on the lakes, and many ugly rocks 
and dangerous rapids in the rivers ; but notwithstanding 
these conditions it is remarkable that so few fatalities 
resulted among this eager throng of voyagers. 



THROUGH THE STKREOSCOPE. 5 I 

The official statistics show that by actual count 40,000 
persons reached Dawson during the year ending July 15, 
1898. It is fair to presume that 20,000 others started, but 
for various reasons did not complete the journey. Five 
hundred dollars would be a most conservative estimate of 
the average individual outlay. Thus the enormous sum of 
$30,000,000 was invested in this stampede. To this 
amount we may add $5,000,000 invested in vessels for 
ocean and river transportation, making a total investment 
of $35,000,000. Against this ouday the gold output dur- 
ing the same period is variously estimated at from $8,000,- 
ool) to $12,000,000. Out of 7,000 claims located on the 
Klondike and its tributaries only about 300 have paid to 
work. The cost of taking supplies to the mining camps, 
the great amount of labor necessary and the high rates 
paid'^for such labor, make it exceedingly expensive to work 
a claim. One must be extremely rich in order to yield a 

profit. 

No. 92. 

The First White Man's Cabin at Haines Mission. 

Arriving at Dawson the first work to be performed by 
the prospector or miner is to construct a cabin for protec- 
tion against the fierce arctic winter which will soon be upon 
him. The style of architecture is the convendonal old log 
cabin, chinked in with moss, and in every way made as 
impervious to wind and cold as is possible. The structures 
are usually small and occupied by two or more persons as 
a matter of economy in building, and for mutual assistance 
and sociability. 

No. 93. 
Home Comfort in a Gold Camp. 
The interior furnishings of a cabin are, as a rule, few and 
crude and no one is likely to envy the miner the comfort 
he may find in such a habitation. On the Yukon the wm- 
ters are long and severe and dark, and the greater portion 
of eight tedious, dreary months must be passed withm the 
four walls of the cabin. Communication with the outside 
world is limited, irregular and uncertain, and if the miner's 
efforts during the past summer have been unsuccessful he 
has little to cheer him during the winter except the hope 
of better luck during the coming season. 



52 A TRIP TO THE GOLD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

No. 94. 
The Dying Klondiker. 

If the stories of the horrors, tragedies and fatahties of 
the trails, and the privations, sufferings and death which 
awaited many who ventured far into the interior could be 
faithfully narrated they would fill a pretentious volume. 
This view represents the death bed of an unfortunate adven- 
turer. Encased in his sleeping bag and furs he finds him- 
self alone and exhausted, with none to hear his cry save 
proud, cold and pitiless Nature, whose irrevocable laws 
exact sore sacrifices in the waste places of God's universe. 

In this stampede more than one met death alone 
and friendl^s, and if there is a sadder hour in all time than 
the hour of hopeless and friendless death, let us pray that 
we may never know it. - 

No. 95. 

Placer Mining; Near the Yukon River* 

Having endured the hardships of the trails and passed 
the dangers of the lakes and rivers, the Klondiker has 
arrived upon the gold fields ; but there are weeks and 
months of tedious labor and many trying vicissitudes inter- 
vening between the advent to the gold fields and the realiza- 
tion of a fortune. Having constructed a cabin and cached 
his supplies, the work of prospecting begins. The miner 
selects from his stores such provisions and implements as 
may be required for a trip of a few days, or perchance a 
month, along the streams and in the hills. Tests for " col- 
ors ' ' of the precious metal are made in every ravine and 
nook of the mountains where there are the slightest indica- 
tions promising a lucky find. The gold pan is ever ready, 
and a small portion of the gravel is carefully washed and 
the results noted with eager interest. It often happens 
that weeks go by without the discovery of gold in quanti- 
ties that would pay for the labor necessary to separate it 
from its native bed. In the Klondike the actual minii^g is 
done in winter. Wood is hauled to the claim, a fire 
built, and inch by inch, foot by foot, the shafts are sunk 
and the rich gravel brought to the surface. It is a slow and 
expensive process. No cleaning up or "sluicing" is done 



throu(;h the stereoscope. 5^ 

until the waters begin to flow late in the spring, and not 
until then is the luck of the miner determined. 

Prospecting during the summer is not a joyous under- 
taking by any means. The labor necessary to pack the 
tools and a sufficient quantity of supplies over the hills and 
across the marshes has a tendency to relax one's energies 
and seriously impair good nature. 

In considering the ordinary difficulties of a prospecting 
tour in Alaska, we must not fail to include the mosquito 
pest. Myriads of these pesky insects spend the summer in 
Alaska ; they emerge from the bark of firewood in the win- 
ter, and come skating down the glaciers in the early spring. 
The Yukon variety has no conscience, nothing but an 
appetite — a thirst for gore. Snow and frost do not destroy 
them, and they utilize the dense fogs as an ambush from 
whence to pounce upon the unwary prospector. It is 
almost impossible to move about the trails or to undertake 
any kind of labor during the summer unless thoroughly pro- 
tected by some sort of mosquito bar. As there is no night 
on the Yukon during the summer season, the mosquito 
evidently feels that it is not proper for the Klondiker to 
sleep while the sun shines, and does everything in its power 
to encourage wakefulness. Although the active members 
of this host of tormenters are usually small their bite would 
do credit to a much larger beast. 

No. 96. 

Gold Miners at Work, 

There are some portions of Alaska in which hydraulic 
mining is carried on to advantage, although the develop- 
ments in this line are still in their infancy. Of course all 
mining of this character must be undertaken during the 
summer or open season. 

No. 97. 
Transfer Point at St. Michael, en rowte to Dawson. 

During the crusade of 1898 there were thousands who 
shrank from the hardships and dangers of the trip by way 
of the Chilkoot Pass, the lakes and upper river, and, there- 
fore, contented themselves as best they could until the Arc- 
tic winter let go its frigid grasp on Bering Sea and the 



^4 A TRIP TO THE G(3LD FIELDS OF ALASKA 

lower Yukon. Scores of vessels carrying a vast multitude 
of gold seekers and thousands of tons of freight left San 
Francisco, Portland and Seattle in time to reach Bering Sea 
at the moment it should be clear of ice, and no time was 
lost in pushing forward to that distant, and yet well-known 
transfer point, St. Michael. 

The village of St. Michael is located upon the North- 
eastern portion of an island of the same name, and is one 
of the oldest of the Russian outposts in Alaska. Here 
passengers and freight are transferred from the ocean ves- 
sels to the light draft river steamers. It is sixty miles from 
St. Michael to the northernmost mouth of the Yukon, 
through which a majority of the steamers entered the river, 
but inasmuch as the waters of the Bering Sea, adjacent to 
the Alaskan coast are very shallow, and there is no harbor 
or suitable anchorage nearer the mouth of the Yukon, it 
has been found necessary to maintain the transfer station at 
St. Michael. The. crusaders of 1898 who followed this 
route gave the little port an air of importance and thrift. 

No. yS. 
The ** Dora Blum'' at the Port of St, MichaeL 

The two oldest transportation companies operating on 
the Yukon are the Alaska Commercial Company and the 
North American Trading and Transportation Company. 
They are located on the little harbor about a mile from 
each other and have spacious wharves and extensive and 
commodious warehouses. These great companies had 
their warehouses filled with supplies for the upper river, 
while thousands of tons were piled up in their yards and 
protected by expansive tarpaulins. At the* time of our 
arrival over thirty vessels were anchored in the little har- 
bor, and hundreds of Klondikers were awaiting transporta- 
tion up the river. 

In this view we have a panorama of the harbor of St. 
Michael, showing a portion of the wharf and warehouses of 
the Alaska Commercial Company. The little steamer in 
the foreground is the " May West," which was the first 
boat to reach Dawson when the river opened in the spring 
of 1898. The larger steamer, to which the " May West" 
is moored, is the " Louise," a new and powerful tugboat, 



fD l^'^ 



THROUCH THK ST KK F.< )S(^OI'F.. 55 

which was constructed during- the winter at Unalaska, and 
had just successfully accomplished the trip of 750 miles 
across Bering Sea to this point. In the immediate fore- 
ground are some of the tents of the miners who are making 
themselves as comfortable as the conditions will permit ' 
during their enforced halt. 

In this harbor there were several little steamers owned 
and manned bv small companies, fitted up as dredges and 
intended to prospect the beds of the Yukon and its tribu- 
taries. One of these little steamers which was bound for 
theKoyukuk River, had, as a part of its equipment, a "full 
blown" brass band, which discoursed patriotic airs as \^ell 
as classic selections, while the ' ' twilight sun ' ' gilded cliffs 
and sky and sea with a glorious blending of most exquisite 
tints. 

No. 99. 
Natives of Alaska* 

We frequently see published statements to the effect 
that the aborigines are rapidly disappearing, but the scene 
here depicted contradicts such an assertion. The eleven 
youthful Equimaux who make up the little company in the 
foreground do not appear to be dissatisfied with existing 
conditions, nor discouraged at future prospects. They are 
fairly well clothed and evidently have not recendy felt the 
pangs of hunger. Their youthful games and playthings 
are simple in character, but these little people extract quite as 
much enjoyment from them as do our more favored children 
in civilization, surrounded by the comforts and advantages 
of the modern nursery and kindergarten. The little Esqui- 
maux have never seen a kitten, for none was ever in that 
section of Alaska, but its place is well filled by the baby 
Siwashdog, which consists chiefly of a bundle of the downi- 
est kind of fur, bright eyes and a playful disposition. 

In the background is a representation of one of those 
native sod houses which served as a habitation for the pio- 
neer Russian and American, as well as for the more ad- 
vanced ot the native Esquimaux. Many of these Indians 
now live in tents, and have otherwise adopted the costumes 
and customs of Americans. 



56 A TRIP TO THK CxOLn FIELDS OF ALASKA. 

No. 100. 
Twiligfht — In Camp at St. Michaels. 

A permanent residence at St. Michaels is not a thing to 
■ be desired, particularly by persons of a sociable disposi- 
tion, for the winters are long and dark and cold, for hun- 
dreds of miles in every direction the waters are locked in 
their fetters of ice, and from September until the following 
June the residents of this little island are almost absolutely 
cut off from communication with the outside world. There 
is little opportunity for divertisement beyond reading and 
an occasional hunt with dog teams along the coast or to- 
ward the interior. The summer season, however, is de- 
lightful, and the scenes and experiences at St. Michael will 
afford many fascinating memories to those tourists who are 
fortunate enough to pass this way during the open season. 
The nearness of this locality to the Arctic Circle gives a 
maximum of sunshine and a minimum of twilight during 
June, July and August. Although the island is entirely 
devoid of forests, the formation is rugged and broken, giv- 
ing a mountainous effect to the general outline, and at twi- 
light the sun tints upon the clouds and sea and landscape 
are often exquisite beyond description, as we can readily 
imagine while viewing this artistic representation of a twi- 
light scene in the outskirts of the village of St. Michael. 

The argonauts to the Yukon have endured and suffered — 
but it cannot be said that their labors and sacrifices have 
been in vain. The pioneer seldom realizes the best fruits 
of his ambitions and efforts. The Pilgrim Fathers ventured 
and suffered, yet they ^ere not permitted to anticipate, 
even vaguely, the magnificence of the power and civiliza- 
tion which the nation they had founded would achieve ere 
the close of the nineteenth century. So will it be with 
Alaska. Organized capital and effort will develop its vast 
resources and reap a rich reward. The argonauts have 
blazed a way to the interior ; they have struggled in the 
midst of privation, disappointment, danger and death. 
Out of this seething crucible of human toil and woe the cov- 
eted gold will come, but only in rare instances will it be 
the portion of those who bore the heat and burden of the 
day. 



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